How to Look after and Clean Your Antique & Vintage Jewellery
Your piece has had a previous life, and it is made to be worn and loved again. Here is everything you need to wear it, care for it and keep it looking beautiful for years to come.
Antique vs. Vintage
Antique
Over 100 years old
- Mostly handmade, so each piece is unique
- Made with natural and precious materials
- Previously owned and worn
- Often finished with fine detail, even on the back
Vintage
Between 50 and 100 years old
- Some handmade, many batch made using machinery
- Often less intricate detail on the backs and insides
- May be made or finished with man made materials
- Previously owned and worn, or deadstock (never worn)
Design eras
- Georgian1714-1837
- Victorian1837-1901
- Arts & Crafts1880s-1920s
- Art Nouveau1890s-1910s
- Edwardian1901-1910
- Art Deco1920s-1930s
- Retro1940s-1950s
- Mid-century1950s-1970s
Eras overlap, and styles did not change overnight, so dates are a guide rather than a rule.
Caring For Your Jewellery
Storing
- Keep pieces apart in padded boxes or fabric pouches to stop scratches and tangles, which we all know can be super annoying.
- Fasten the clasps of necklaces and bracelets before storing.
- Choose a cool, dry place. Moisture causes oxidation.
- Keep out of direct sunlight, which can warp materials and fade colour.
- To wrap a piece, use acid-free tissue paper. Never use newspaper, as it contains acids and the ink can rub off on your jewellery.
Wearing
- Put jewellery on last, after perfume, lotion, hairspray and make-up.
- Take it off before cleaning with harsh chemicals. Bleach, for example, can react with metal.
- We're pretty sure you know this but take jewellery off before bathing, showering, swimming, exercising, and visiting steam rooms or saunas.
- Be careful around water. Wet skin is slippery and pieces can slip off.
Check in with your jewellery. Antique pieces can be delicate. Every so often, check the stones, hinges and fasteners.
A little patina is normal and part of the charm. It shows how loved your piece was before it reached you.
Cleaning Guide
For every piece: wipe it with a soft, colourfast, lint-free cloth after each wear. It is the simplest way to prevent build-up.
Faux pearls
The oils in your skin polish faux pearls, so the best care is simply to wear them. If they get grubby or muddy:
- Wipe gently with a soft cloth, slightly damp with clean water.
- Dry straight away with a dry cloth.
Never soak them.
Plated jewellery
- Soak only if needed. Use a plastic bowl, or line the bowl with a soft cloth to avoid scratches. For light build-up, mix mild dish soap into lukewarm distilled water and soak for no more than 20 seconds.
- Brush gently, if at all. Use a soft-bristled toothbrush (not nylon or stiff bristles) on open-back settings and textured surfaces only. Avoid engraved areas and filigree.
- Rinse. Hold under slow, cool running water for 5-10 seconds. Distilled water prevents mineral spotting.
- Air dry flat on a cotton towel, out of direct sunlight.
Never use heat (hairdryer or radiator). Thermal shock can cause tiny cracks in the plating.
Sterling silver
Silver can tarnish simply from wear. Most of the time it only needs a gentle polish. If it is dirty:
- Mix 1 teaspoon of gentle dish soap into 1 cup of warm water.
- Soak for 5-10 minutes, then brush gently with a soft or baby toothbrush.
- Rinse in clean warm water and dry straight away with a microfibre towel.
- For heavier tarnish, polish with a silver cloth such as Town Talk. See also our guide to cleaning and polishing antique silver.
Never use paper towels, which can scratch the metal. Skip the soak for pieces set with pearls, paste or foil-backed stones.
Stones
Keep stones dry. Water can get behind them and make them look dull. If a stone looks dirty, gently wipe it with the corner of a soft, lint-free cloth.
Never soak pieces with stones.
Wear it: styling ideas
Antique jewellery is made to be worn. Here are some of our favourite ways to style it.
Glossary
Metals and finishes
| Term | What it is | Durability |
|---|---|---|
| Pinchbeck | A historic copper-and-zinc alloy created to resemble gold. | Solid metal alloy, no plating to wear off |
| Gilt | Covered with gold, over an unspecified base metal. | Varies |
| Silver gilt | Gold over sterling silver. | Varies |
| Gold filled | A substantial layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base-metal core. | Good |
| Rolled gold | A sheet of gold bonded to another metal, usually brass and sometimes silver, then rolled into a single sheet. Not solid gold, but the gold layer is much thicker than ordinary plating. | Good |
| Gold plated | A very thin layer of real gold, usually electroplated onto another metal. | Thin layer, wears with time |
| Silver-plated | A base metal such as copper or brass, coated with a thin layer of silver. | Thin layer, wears with time |
Stones
PasteGlass cut and polished to imitate precious gemstones such as diamonds, sapphires or emeralds. Especially popular in the Georgian and Victorian periods.
Marcasite Small, faceted pyrite stones set into metal, usually silver. Particularly fashionable in the Victorian and Art Deco eras.
Tiger eye A golden brown gemstone with a silky lustre and shifting bands of light, an effect called chatoyancy. Often used in rings, pendants and beads.
Faux stones Imitation gemstones made from glass, crystal, resin or acrylic, designed to look like natural stones at a lower price.
Techniques and styles
Filigree A delicate technique in which fine threads of gold or silver are twisted and soldered together into intricate, lace like patterns.
Repoussé A technique in which a design is hammered from the reverse side of a silver, brass or copper metal sheet to create raised patterns and relief.
Mourning jewellery Jewellery made to remember a loved one who has died. Popular in the Georgian and Victorian periods, it often features black materials such as jet, enamel or onyx, and may carry an inscription or a lock of hair. Very Collectible.
Pieces and fastenings
Albert / Albertine A chain traditionally made to hold a pocket watch, with a T bar and Medal fob, tassel or decorative charm, named after Prince Albert. These are often unique and converted into longer versions that can be worn across clothing or as a necklace or bracelet.
Longguard Is a multi purpose chain that are extra long that used to hold pocket watches or muffs. These chains were usually continuous loops with a dog clip, large bolt, or split ring to connect the watch or muffs. They were popular in the 19th and early 20th century. They were made using different metal materials
Fish hook clasp A traditional fastening found on antique necklaces and bracelets. A hook fits securely into an ornamental box or catch.
Trade terms
Dead Stock Brand new, unworn vintage pieces made decades ago that sat forgotten in factory vaults, backrooms or wholesale warehouses and never reached retail shelves.